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Author Topic: How To Check PTR Bolt Gap?
RevMetric
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Member # 6070

posted May 15, 2006 13:31      Profile for RevMetric        Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
With all the discussion about the PTR-91's bolt gap, I thought it was time to check mine. I’m not new to working on firearms, and have built several ARs. But, this is my first HK design. I know how to use a feeler gauge. I guess I just don’t know where to stick it.

Could someone give me a brief description on how to check the bolt gap on my PTR?

Thanks

Mark


Posts: 33 | From: Tennessee | Registered: Apr 2006  |  IP: Logged
FMJBTHP
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posted May 15, 2006 20:08      Profile for FMJBTHP     Send New Private Message      Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
If you look into the magwell while holding the gun upside down, you should see the bottom of the bolt carrier, and just forward of that buried most of the way into the trunion will be the bolt head. On an empty chamber, in the fully forward locked position there should be a gap between the bolt carrier and bolt head. HK specs call for the gap to be within .004" min and .018" max. As the gun wears out, this gap will decrease (Faster on some guns than others evidently). To ensure the bolt head is in the fully locked postion, you have to let the action slam forward on it's own without holding the charging handle, then pull the trigger so that the spring pressure from the hammer is also acting against the bolt carrier (Remember to do this on an empty chamber [050] ) Hope this helps,

mike

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"Helping others to find the products they need, from sources other than Joeken since 2005"


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RevMetric
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posted May 15, 2006 20:44      Profile for RevMetric        Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
Thanks Mike, this is a good description. I'll check tonight.

Mark


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lxpony
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posted May 16, 2006 00:09      Profile for lxpony   Email lxpony   Send New Private Message      Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
And the potential pitfalls of having a bolt gap too close is????????
Posts: 16 | Registered: May 2006  |  IP: Logged
FMJBTHP
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posted May 16, 2006 01:13      Profile for FMJBTHP     Send New Private Message      Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
quote:
Originally posted by lxpony:
And the potential pitfalls of having a bolt gap too close is????????

The problem with having too small or no bolt gap is that the rollers are extended so far that the chamber pressure may not be enough to retract them and reliably cycle the weapon, leading to ejection failures. Too large of a bolt gap on the ther hand could let the bolt cycle back while the chamber pressure is still dangerously high. This probably wouldn't result in catastrophic failure, but it definitely wouldn't be pleasant, and would most likely cause some significant damage to the rifle.

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Rotor
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posted May 18, 2006 20:02      Profile for Rotor   Email Rotor   Send New Private Message      Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
What other probs could be caused by large Bolt gap.

Mine is at .019 and I recently tried some some different flavors of ammo and some were not touching off on the first hit (Port). 2 in 5 needed 2 strikes. They did not look like light hits.

My shooting buddy with another 91 was having no such trouble.

I was shooting SA and Aussie with no issues for over a 1000 rounds.


JR


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Vulcan Raven
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posted May 18, 2006 21:41      Profile for Vulcan Raven   Email Vulcan Raven   Send New Private Message      Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
My bolt gap is about .018"

I haven't seen any problems as a result of it being this high.

The only mishap I have seen was a case head seperation. This was due to a failure to load using the 'HK slap' and instead using thumb pressure to close the bolt.

I think if my bolt gap was about .014" or so....this method of bolt closure might have been OK. But I am suspecting with it already this high....that simply clicking the bolt shut is not providing the necessary headspace....therefore, a case head seperation resulted.

I did not attempt to load the rifle again in this manner....as I suspect the same thing might occur again, and maybe next time, it will do some damage to the weapon.

I am not saying definitely that the higher bolt gap is the culprit, but I suspect that's what it was.

Other than that, it functions flawlessly. And with the BG set that high, it should be a while before I have to change out the barrel, or rollers.

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" It's better to be hated for who you are....than liked for who you are not. " Van Zant



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Raven
(designated sniper of worthless trolls)


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FMJBTHP
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posted May 18, 2006 22:26      Profile for FMJBTHP     Send New Private Message      Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
quote:
Originally posted by Rotor:
What other probs could be caused by large Bolt gap.

Mine is at .019 and I recently tried some some different flavors of ammo and some were not touching off on the first hit (Port). 2 in 5 needed 2 strikes. They did not look like light hits.

My shooting buddy with another 91 was having no such trouble.

I was shooting SA and Aussie with no issues for over a 1000 rounds.


JR


The larger the gap is, the less firing pin protrusion you'll have, as the pin goes all the way through the bolt carrier and into the bolt head. At .018" though this should not be a problem unless your firing pin is worn down. I'd tend to think that the ammo was the culprit.

Raven, how is the chamber on your 91 cut? If it's short chambered, then it should get zero headspace with just thumb pressure closing the bolt. If it's cut to be at correct headspace with the bolt head against the breach, that might be the problem. You can probably tell by checking bolt gap on an empty and then a loaded chamber. If the loaded chamber measurement is bigger than .018", then it's short chambered. If it's the same (.018"), it's either just right, or too long. Thats a very strange malfunction you gun had. I can't really think of any explanation that makes sense except that maybe it was a deffective case.

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Rotor
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posted May 19, 2006 16:59      Profile for Rotor   Email Rotor   Send New Private Message      Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
FMJBTHP
Thanks for confirming the pin protrusion fact. I was suspecting it. I have some of that light weight / down-loaded CETME 7.62 ( pre- nato) ammo. It wont touch off in my rifle at all but does in other 91's. ( it is fun to shoot) Do you think I could increase firing pin protrusion by installing -2 rollers. ( I could just switch up to standard ones as the gap decreases.)

I did the hot chamber headspace check. It was .019 empty and .019 with a round in the chamber. I distinctly remember the gunsmith telling me he set the gap on the high side to give me more service life.

Thanks again


JR


Posts: 228 | From: IL. | Registered: Oct 2004  |  IP: Logged
FMJBTHP
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posted May 19, 2006 21:19      Profile for FMJBTHP     Send New Private Message      Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
The -2 rollers will probably help. I'm not sure what the size difference is in rollers, if the -2 means .002" or what. Whatever the difference in diameter of your rollers vs the -2 rollers is about 1/4 of the bolt gap you will loose. If the -2 rollers are in fact .002" you should lose .008" off of your bolt gap, if I'm thinking this through correctly. I'm basing this off of the 4 to 1 taper of the locking piece that the rollers roll against during lockup. Check your firing pin also, if the tip looks mis shapen or mushroomed at all, it might be too short to touch off some primers.

Since your bolt gap is the same on a loaded and unloaded chamber, it sounds like the chamber is cut to the exact depth required for headspace. I'd check it with a "No Go" or "Field" gauge just to be sure. If you don't see a bolt gap increase using the "Field" gauge, you might have an oversize chamber. If the ammo you are using is slightly shorter than other milsurp ammo, it might be sliding forward in the chamber and away from the firing pin. Check the brass from a new one against one that you have fired, if there is a lot of swelling evident in the shoulder area, or if the case has gained in length by a significant amount, this would indicate an oversize chamber.

Mike

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"Helping others to find the products they need, from sources other than Joeken since 2005"


Posts: 360 | From: Peoples Republic of Kalifornia | Registered: Jan 2005  |  IP: Logged
Rotor
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posted May 23, 2006 20:02      Profile for Rotor   Email Rotor   Send New Private Message      Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
Thanks again FMJBTHP

These are the Rollers dimensions.

+4 8.04 mm
+2 8.02 mm
Std 8.00 mm
-2 7.98 mm
-4 7.96 mm


I will check check the headspace with a more than one type of ammo.

Do use Nato or 308. gauges for your rifle?


JR


Posts: 228 | From: IL. | Registered: Oct 2004  |  IP: Logged
FMJBTHP
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posted May 23, 2006 20:09      Profile for FMJBTHP     Send New Private Message      Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
Thanks for the dimensions Rotor. I've been using a Forster 308 "GO" gauge for all my chamber measurements.

Mike

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"Helping others to find the products they need, from sources other than Joeken since 2005"


Posts: 360 | From: Peoples Republic of Kalifornia | Registered: Jan 2005  |  IP: Logged

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